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SRO Air Intake Components

Making sense with aftermarket automotive performance equipment.

PCV Oil Air Separator Kit:

Year/Make/Model Tested:1996-2004 Ford Mustang GT/Cobra

Install:10 minutes

Cost:Averages about $150 for the single stage kit, up to no-limit depending on what you want. Each kit is custom made just for your needs.

Ordering Info:If you would like to order a kit, please send email to Orders. Kits usually take 1 week to assemble and ship, sometimes less, sometimes more. Since each kit is custom I can't predict with 100% accuracy. Your kit is guaranteed against defects in materials only. Since I make no profit and you install it, you get no labor warranty. If any part of the kit fails within 90 days, I'll repair or replace the broken part at my sole discretion after inspection.

You can either send me your current upper intake plenum to tap for 3/8" NPT (No Charge), or I can front you a tapped stock upper plenum and you will have to send me your old stocker (this requires a $50 core charge. Refunded upon core return.). If you have an aftermarket plenum you'd like me to tap, that's easy enough but it does require you remove it from your car and send it to me. I also offer the 3/8" NPT tap as an accessory so you can drill and tap your own plenum as you see fit. Cost is 10 bucks extra for the tap. You can use it with a crescent wrench or any 1/2" square drive tap drive. If you can't or won't send me your plenum and you don't buy the tap then there is an additional $50 charge for the core if you want me to send you a tapped plenum.
Gain:
No HP/TQ gains to speak of. What you get is cumulative reliability and performance retention, not instant gain. Read on...you'll understand in a minute.
Worthwhile:
On its own...yes, very much so.

Theory Behind It:
The PCV system in all cars so equipped but particularly OHC cars will always pick up gobs of aerisolized oil and transport that into the intake manifold. Over-head-cams spin around at great speed underneath the valve covers. Since they are a lubricated part, the spinning action causes very fine oil droplets to become suspended in the surrounding air. As engine vacuum draws this oil soaked air out (the whole point of the PCV system is to ventilate the crankcase and it's a good thing to vent properly, don't get me wrong) it's under a great deal of negative pressure, as it enters the common plenum of the intake manifold, there is a sudden difference in pressure. It's this sudden difference in pressures that allow the oil to fall out of suspension and drop to the bottom and sides of your intake. The crux of the issue is that the oil gathers in your intake on the floor and walls of it, reducing manifold volume, providing an even more attractive spot for more oil to make a home, caking your valves with crud that reduces mileage and to top it off, oil in the intake charge reduces the effective octane rating of your fuel. Low octane is bad for modern cars (manufacturers aren't joking about what gas to use... if it says premium, then use premium) and when combined with high miles and crudded up valves leads to problems like pinging/detonation, dieseling on shutdown, lost power and if left to get worse eventually catastrophic failure as damage from continued prolonged pinging breaks apart your piston rings and beats your bearings into a nice smooth paste. So; as you can see, oil in the PCV air is bad. This setup fixes that issue.

How it works:
Rather than just allowing the air to enter the intake manifold and dump its oily payload, we can insert a filter into the path and improve our situation. The coalescent filter uses the same pressure difference that causes the oil to goop the intake to cause it to fall out of suspension, I've just moved that process to another location where it won't do any harm. Effectively what's happening is the microscopic oil droplets collide thanks to pressure changes and velocity changes, as they collide their mass becomes too great for the air to suspend them and they fall into the reservior at the bottom of the filter. Any oil that's still in the air is almost completely filtered by the second phase of the filter which is a 5-micron element, usually made of spun glass or sintered bronze. After passing through the the filter the air is nearly totally free of oil. Can you ever get it all? Not really. Be realistic. What we're trying to do (and my kit does this terribly well) is beat the problem back to a neglibable level. With just 1 stage of filtering though this type of kit you'll typically pull 1-4 ounces of oil out of the air being delivered to the intake every 1000 miles. Over the life of your car, that's a lot of oil!

If you feel the need to make your own, go for it. I sell them for what it costs me to make them. I use all new steel braided teflon hose, and race quality aluminum steel and brass fittings with new 5 micron dual method (coalescent and media) main filters. The parts are kind of expensive but they never wear out.

WARNING: If you fail to empty the filter reservior regularly, you'll probably suck liquid oil into your intake. This will cause a HUGE amount of smoke to pour out the exhaust. This is a maintenance part... maintain it for Pete's sake.

Images:

Here is the 1 stage kit as it ships to a box stock Mustang GT owner.

Here is what the kit looks like installed. Gone are the days of ugly-ass black tubes running everywhere and collapsing after just a few weeks. My kit is MUCH more durable than any of the aftermarket kits currently marketed and, it's totally pimp looking. Best of all...it's been tested to work for 5 years on my personal daily driven Mustang GT and several others.

Upgrades:
You may purchase your kit with the following accessories:

- 3/8NPT thread tap. (+$10) Works with 1/2" tap driver or crescent wrench	- Bronze pre-filter (+$20)	- Check valves (for blower cars) (+$20)
- 2 stage primary filter (+$50)	- Per 1' braided hose extend (+$15)	- Porting of upper plenum (+$100)
- Tapped Stock Plenum Core (+$50)	- Stock Plenum Drill/Tap (FREE)	- Additional Steel or Aluminum Fittings (@cost)